The Joshua Tree

                                                             

                                                                     The Joshua Tree.

‘The Joshua Tree National Park is a vast protected area in southern California, characterised by rugged rock formations and stark desert landscapes. Named for the region’s twisted, bristled Joshua trees, the park straddles the cactus-dotted Colorado Desert and the Mojave Desert. Crafted over millions of years by torrential rain, battering wind, and extreme temperatures, Joshua Tree National Park stretches over nearly 800,000 acres of rugged terrain. Despite the harsh conditions, Joshua Tree teems with plant and animal life that has adapted and thrived in the area’s fierce climate.’ - Wikipedia

I never knew much about this place until Gareth and Jenny spent a few days there during a holiday to California some years back. It sounded stunning. All I knew about the Joshua Tree was that country singer Gram Parsons died there on September 19, 1973, which coincidently was mine and Sue’s anniversary. Irish rock group U2 also had an album named ‘The Joshua Tree’ which was released in 1987.

So when Carly asked me if I’d like to join them on holiday to California and asked for ideas, I mentioned I had an ambition to visit this barren place they called the Joshua Tree. As it was obviously sparse and there was little for Ruby and Rose to get excited about, two nights was deemed sufficient. These had to be booked separately from the Trailfinders itinerary. Which, again, thanks to the Covid pandemic, caused no end of problems in trying to contact and communicate with whoever it was managing the isolated Joshua Tree Hotel. Was anybody there? Was the hotel still there? We paid a deposit and then with the world closing down, we weren’t sure if we would ever hear from them again. It was a nightmare which Carly dealt with most of the time, keeping me informed of developments or should I say, non-developments.

However, it all worked out in the end and here we were ready to move on from San Diego to begin our next adventure. 

Nick had been following the news and weather reports before we left and told us that there was expected to be flash flooding over that way. Well we’ll deal with that problem when the time comes was my reaction.

We set off early and Nick took us along the coastal route before we veered off towards Palm Springs where the intention was to have a break. A place which became famous in the 1930s for movie stars who congregated there. In the 1990s Sonny Bono, one half of the 60s pop duo Sonny and Cher was the Mayor. So, all in all, it was agreed it was well worth a pit stop.

Carly sat in front with Nick, with me behind and Ruby and Rose sitting in the boot area. Drinks and sweets were passed back and forth with the usual mayhem and arguments. The coastal route of the Pacific was picturesque, the beaches serene in the sunshine, the sea calm, palm trees lining the roads. A world away from home.

We pulled over by a beach at one point for a toilet break and the chance to stretch our legs. Though there was little sign of activity, a few buildings offering some wares, there was little else, though there was the ubiquitous lifeguard post that remind you of a children’s high chair or perch for Tennis referees. Somehow they look different to what we have in the U.K. They always remind me of the film ‘Jaws”.

We drove on and eventually arrived in the city of Palm Springs; 

‘known for its hot springs, stylish hotels, golf courses and spas. It's also noted for its many fine examples of midcentury-modern architecture.’ 

-Wikipedia 

Well, we saw nothing! Set on the edge of the Sonoran Desert surrounded by high mountains we were surprised how dead it was. Nobody around. Looked deserted. Getting out of the car we discovered why. The temperature was a 105 degrees! We didn’t realise with the air conditioning in the car. The heat was unbearable. Nobody was around because they were all indoors. We took a short stroll, trying to keep in what shadows there was. A few shops were  open but there seemed to be very little on offer. Ornaments and a book shop! We lingered in this establishment to keep cool for a while and with visions of seeing Robert De Niro or Tom Cruise wandering around rapidly becoming wishful thinking, decided there wasn’t any point in hanging around any longer for the sake of it. We clambered back aboard our truck and got on with our journey. Who was it that said ‘Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid day sun?’ Noel Coward?

Out here the roads are long and straight, just like you see in the movies, nothing much to see apart from the occasional cactus tree, the simmering desert, the road seemed to go on forever. Then right of the blue, here we were, the Joshua Tree Hotel appeared on our left like an oasis. It looked small, lost in the surroundings. First impressions were, ‘blimey! is this it?’ There was a small town if you can call it that a mile down the road as it happened but this really was isolation. And with so much history. I couldn’t wait to explore, not sure what Carly, Nick and kids were thinking, particularly Ruby and Rose but there was a swimming pool for them to cool off in.

We entered a door which led to a reception area and waited for the proprietor to show, The room was small but its walls adorned with memorabilia, posters and photos, and a guitar was available for you to pose with if wished. I obliged, of course. The guy eventually turned up, looked like an ageing hippe, bedraggled but very relaxed. He booked us in and then led us to our rooms, mine I had paid an extra £246 for the pleasure. It was where Gram Parsons of Byrds, Flying Burroto Brothers fame had died. For some reason Carly was slightly perturbed about this. ‘You gonna be alright Dad?’ The room Carly, Nick and the kids were sleeping in claimed that it was once John Wayne’s favourite when he was filming his cowboy films in the 50s and 60s. Well you can believe anything if you want, but who knows? My room was authentic though, Gram’s memorabilia was all over the place. Once settled in Nick drove off to the nearby town where there was a Wallmart to stock up with some food and booze. He also found a saloon where they served meals and booze and that is where we headed for later on. Great place it was too, rough and ready ranch like. 

It had been a long day, and drive, we were all shattered but before getting our heads down we wanted to witness a clear night sky, the stars, taking in the emptiness and vastness of where we were. Unfortunately it was cloudy and we couldn’t see a thing, and we didn’t hear a coyote howling in the night either which was a memory Gareth had shared with us. 

‘Did you sleep alright Dad?’ Carly asked me in the morning. ‘Yes’ I said, surprised. ‘Why?’

‘I’ve been reading reviews and they all say that the room you're in is haunted. Things move around in the night and you can feel Gram Parson’s presence in the room.’

“Really’ I said not concerned at all.

I felt really good sharing his room funny enough. Thinking about all the people who had been in here, and the hotel, made it something special. Keith Richards, Emmylou Harris, Kris Kristofferson and loads of other prominent musicians had slept or drank here. Standing around and exploring this place was amazing to me. There was a memorial to Gram by the veranda just outside the room. The story has it that Gram died in his room thanks to an overdose of morphine and alcohol. 

Gram’s body was taken by his family to be buried in their hometown but the casket was intercepted at Los Angeles International Airport by his friends  impersonating mortuary workers. Under the impression that they had been hired by the Parsons family, Western Airlines released the body to them. They took it back to the Joshua Tree and set it on fire, which was Gram’s wishes. He had revealed that if such an occasion should arrive he wanted his ashes spread over the Desert. The burning casket was reported by campers to the local authorities who investigated the incident and identified both perpetrators.

‘Parsons’ body was partially cremated. His charred remains were recovered and returned to his family. Meanwhile, his friends, Phil Kaufman and Michael Martin were accused of grand theft and fined for burning the casket, while they also had to pay for Parsons' funeral. Parsons' remains were later buried in New Orleans at Garden of Memories on Airline Highway.’ - Wikipedia.

What was more sad for Carly was one of her idols, singer Olivia Newton-John dying whilst we were here. ONJ had been fighting cancer for a number of years so it wasn’t unexpected, only when.

The one whole day we had here was taken up by a tour of the National Park, or some of it anyway, it would take a month to cover it all. This proved to be a step too far for Ruby who whinged all the way round. Fair enough. Must have been boring for her, looking at cactus trees, rocks and sand and little else. Rose was fine though. She’s a different kettle of fish to her sister. The day was broken up, thankfully for Ruby, with a visit to a Pioneer Town, an archetypical Cowboy town complete with Saloon, Undertakers, Hardware store, sheriff’s office etc. Strangely we were the only visitors there, had the place to ourselves which we took advantage of for photo opportunities. Soon it was time to move on and then we suddenly realised we were running out of fuel! Tension rose as Nick drove around the desert roads looking for a way back to the main stretch and the hope that a garage might give us some salvation. Close shave it was. Thoughts of being abandoned in the desert and the heat wasn’t very comforting. So it was back to the hotel with plenty of time for Ruby and Rose to splash about in the welcoming pool. A few beers were pushed down, glass of wine for Carly before readying for another short trek, on foot, to the ‘ranch’ we had encountered previously for a meal. A souvenir store was also at the rear and was duly relieved of a few goods and presents. Including the customary T-shirt.

Our visit to the desert was finished off with a glass of Red or two on the veranda affixed to John Wayne’s bedroom. ‘Fancy a drink?’ Nick asked. ‘The Hell I do’ I replied in my best ‘Duke’ drawl.  

Next day was going to be another long drive, to Los Angeles. I went off to bed with Carly once more asking, ‘you going to be alright Dad?’

“Yess…’